Gyokuro — Japan's most prized shade-grown tea, with its characteristic sweetness and deep umami — was not discovered in a temple or by a scholar. Its creation is traditionally credited to a merchant. The man was Yamamoto Kahee the sixth, head of the Yamamotoyama tea house in Edo, who is said to have found a new direction for fine tea through his work on tea processing during a visit to Uji. That work created a tea category that remains Japan's finest to this day. But Yamamoto Kahee is not one person: the heads of the Yamamoto family used the name "Kahee" for generations, each making their own mark on Japanese tea history.
Yamamoto Kahee and His Achievements in "Yamamotoyama"
Their story runs through the Edo period's transformation of tea into an everyday Japanese habit.
Yamamoto Kahee, the First — The Beginning of Yamamotoyama
Yamamoto Kahee, the first owner, moved from Uji Yamamoto village in Yamashiro Province to Edo and founded a shop named "Kagiya" in Nihonbashi in 1690, dealing in Japanese paper, tea and tea utensils. This is the beginning of the ongoing "Yamamotoyama."
At the time, Nihonbashi was one of Edo's main centers of commerce. People and goods came there from across the country, and its proximity to samurai residences and townspeople's neighborhoods likely made it a particularly favorable location for selling goods such as tea, sought both for daily use and for gifts.
The family name of the shop subsequently changed several times: from Kagiya to Kamiya Kahee, Toryuken Kahee, Yamamotoya Kahee and Yamamotoya Kahee Shoten. In 1941, the shop was renamed "Yamamotoyama" after a popular tea it was selling. The changes in shop name suggest how flexibly the Yamamoto family adapted its business to the needs of each era.
Yamamoto Kahee, the Second — The Rise of Yamamotoyama
According to Yamamotoyama’s own history, in the era of Yamamoto Kahee, the second head of the company, a breakthrough came. Nagatani Soen, who developed the Green Sencha Method, visited Yamamotoyama to promote his new tea. The second-generation Kahee tasted the Sencha that other tea merchants had dismissed and was so surprised by its beautiful color and depth of taste that he decided to buy it immediately. This Sencha was later named "Tenka-ichi (the best in the country)." The name suggests an intention to share the Sencha's unprecedented quality widely. Kahee the second took Nagatani Soen's technique beyond a purchase, promoting its value as a product the wider public could appreciate.
The partnership between Kahee the second and Nagatani Soen is a good example of a producer and a seller working together to develop a new tea culture. This Sencha became very popular not only in Edo but throughout Japan.
There is an episode that Yamamotoyama thanked the Nagatani family for the huge profit it made and kept sending 25 ryo of koban (gold coins) to the Nagatani family for about 130 years. Nagatanien was later founded by Nagatani Yoshio, the 10th generation counting from Nagatani Soen.
Yamamoto Kahee, the Fifth — The Discovery of Sayama Tea
The fifth generation Kahee discovered "Sayama Tea" grown in what is now Saitama Prefecture. In Sayama, where tea was originally produced, people had begun to make tea following the Sencha method popular nationwide at the time. Kahee recognized the good taste of the tea and gave advice on how to make it — resulting in what became "Sayama Tea."
Sayama has a cooler climate than Kyoto or Shizuoka, with harsh winter cold. The leaves are therefore said to grow slowly and tend to become thick and sturdy, holding up well during the final firing. These climate conditions contributed to Sayama tea's robust taste.
In 1819, they signed a sales contract and named it "Shimo no Hana (Frost Flower)" and "Yuki no Ume (Plum Blossoms in Snow)." The tea became popular. Sayama tea has since become known as one of Japan's three major teas alongside Shizuoka and Uji, earning such high regard that a tea-picking song declares, "For taste, Sayama is the final word."
Yamamoto Kahee, the Sixth — Creating Gyokuro
It is said that Yamamoto Kahee, the sixth, developed the production method of Gyokuro. Every tea dealer was competing fiercely to differentiate Sencha, which was very popular. Kahee the sixth found a new direction for fine tea through his work on tea processing when visiting Uji (Kyoto) — this is said to be the origin of Gyokuro.
In shaded cultivation, a key part of Gyokuro production, reducing the sunlight reaching the tea plants helps preserve amino acids in the leaves. Theanine in particular is known to contribute to umami, and limiting strong sunlight helps umami stand out over astringency.
Gyokuro became popular with hatamoto and daimyo for its mild and elegant flavor. There is also a theory that its name comes from its distinctive umami, likened to dew on a jewel. Tsuji Riemon is said to have perfected Gyokuro in its present rod-shaped form during the Meiji era. It has remained Japan's most prized covered tea ever since.
Every cup of Gyokuro brewed today still follows the principle of shaded cultivation — that shade changes the leaf, and the leaf changes the cup. The method has been refined, the cultivars have diversified, but the core idea remains: cover the plant, slow the light, and the tea grows sweeter. Two centuries later, that principle still holds. Browse our green tea collection to taste what shade-grown tea becomes in the cup.
Frequently Asked Questions
Was Yamamoto Kahee one person or a family name?
Yamamoto Kahee was an inherited name used by successive heads of the Yamamoto family. The first, fourth, fifth, and sixth generations each made their own mark on Japanese tea history.
Are there specific birth and death dates for Yamamoto Kahee?
There is no single birth or death date because Kahee was a name passed down through generations. The lineage is anchored by key years such as 1690, 1819, and 1941 instead.
How did the fourth Yamamoto Kahee help Sencha spread?
He recognized the value of Nagatani Soen’s green Sencha method, bought the tea at once, and helped turn it into Tenka-ichi, a famous tea in Edo and across Japan.
What did the fifth Yamamoto Kahee do for Sayama tea?
He saw the promise of tea grown in today’s Saitama, advised on production, signed a sales contract in 1819, and helped Sayama tea become one of Japan’s three major teas.
How did the sixth Yamamoto Kahee shape modern tea culture?
He linked shading tea bushes with a sweeter, deeper cup, creating the principle behind Gyokuro. Modern shade-grown teas still build on that same observation from Uji.
